Goa is most popularly known for its beaches, parties, and nightlife. But beyond this stereotypical party image, the state harbours an ancient culture and a deeply spiritual heritage. And nowhere is it exhibited more explicitly than in Igitun Chalne, its unsung and underrated festival, dedicated to Goddess Lairai. During this festival, thousands of devotees, known as Dhonds, adorn white clothes and walk on sizzling hot coals as a display of their devotion to the Goddess.
Igitun Chalne Goa: History And Religious Significance
What’s In The Name
The festival comes from a blend of local religious and cultural beliefs. In Marathi, Igitun means “upon fire”, and “chalne” means walking. Hence, the name of the festival is derived from the ritual of walking on fire.
Lore Of The Festival
Legend has it that the Goddess, along with six of her siblings – one brother and five sisters – migrated to Goa from the holy land of Kashi. Here, they settled in the town of Mayem. One day, one of the sisters, Kelbai, asked the brother, Khetoba, to fetch some firewood.
However, on his way, Khetoba got distracted by a group of children playing a game and forgot all about the firewood. When Khetoba did not return, Goddess Lairai went looking for him and found him immersed in watching the children’s game.
Enraged by this, she struck Khetoba, who, in turn, got angry. He refused to go back home and left for Vaiginim. When Goddess Lairai’s anger subsided, she felt guilty about her actions and left Mayem and settled in Shirgao, where Igitun Chalne is celebrated annually.
As a penance for her actions, she walked barefoot on coals, and thus, the festival was born.
Where And When Does Igitun Chalne Take Place?
Igitun Chalne, officially known as the Shirgao Lairai Jatra, takes place annually at the Shri Devi Lairai Temple in Shirgao. The village is located at an hour’s distance from Panaji. It usually happens during the last week of April or the first week of May. It attracts a large number of people, so be prepared for huge crowds during the festival.
Most of the people in attendance are Dhonds or devotees of the Goddess. They can be easily identified as they wear white clothes. Prior to participating in the festival, men and women observe a strict vegetarian diet and celibacy for weeks leading up to the walk.
Increased Safety Measures After Last Year’s Stampede
Last year, this festival witnessed a tragic stampede that left seven dead and 80 injured. Since then, the authorities have tightened security and have taken additional crowd management measures.
There will be a strict one-way movement along with designated entry and exit points. This will ensure a smooth flow of the massive crowd. In addition to this, certain areas near the Homkund or the ritual pyre will only be accessible to the Dhonds.
How To Reach Shirgao?
By Air: The closest airport is Manohar International Airport (MOPA). It is located less than 35 kilometers from Shirgao. From the Dabolim airport, Shirgao is around 50 kilometers.
By Train: The closest railway station to Shirgao is Thivim. It is around 5 kilometers away. The next closest stations are Karmali (32 km) and Margao (53 km).
By Road: You can book private cabs from Panaji, which is located around 22 km from Shirgao, or from Mapusa, which is around 13 km away.
Things Tourists Should Be Mindful Of
- Avoid flash photography around the devotees, and if you’re taking a picture of someone specific, make sure you have their consent.
- You may have to take off your footwear far from the temple; so, take a bag to carry your footwear along in order to avoid misplacing them.
- Avoid beachwear.
- Wear traditional clothing.
- Make you follow the crowd management instructions and only enter and exit from the designated points to avoid confusion and stampede.
Nearby Locations To Visit
Arvalem Caves And Waterfall
Located around 18 km from Shirgaon, the Arvalem caves and waterfall make for a pleasant drive. These are ancient rock-cut caves that seem straight out of a magical fairytale. Not much is known about the history of these caves, which makes them all the more interesting to see.
Mayem Lake
Known as a popular boating and picnic location, this freshwater lake is located just 8 km from Shirgaon. You could plan a daytime boating picnic and make it back to Shirgaon just in time for the Igitun Chalne festival.
FAQs
Can Tourists Participate In The Firewalk?
No, the firewalking is strictly limited to consecrated Dhonds.
What Time Does The Firewalk Start?
The pyre is lit soon after sunset; however, the walking only happens in the wee hours of the morning.
Is There An Entry Fee?
No, the festival is free for all.
