A Sweet Season in the City of Light
During Dev Deepawali Varanasi, when over a million diyas illuminate the ghats of the Ganga, another rare lightness fills the city – the cloud-like sweetness of Varanasi Malaiyo. This rare winter sweet, available only for a few months, defines the city’s culinary charm during the cold mornings of Kartik Purnima.
If you’re visiting Banaras for the Dev Diwali festival, here’s your ultimate guide to tasting Malaiyo and five other Varanasi winter sweets that make this sacred season even sweeter.
What Is Malaiyo – Varanasi’s Rare Winter Miracle
The Dessert
Malaiyo (or Makhan Malai, Nimish) is an ethereal foam dessert made by boiling milk with saffron and cardamom, then leaving it overnight under the open sky. The winter dew naturally ferments and froths the milk, which is then gently whipped into a delicate mousse and served in kulhads topped with pistachios and almonds.
Locals describe it as “eating a sweet cloud.”
Why It’s So Rare
The process depends on cold temperatures and dew, which means Malaiyo is available only from November to February. By late morning, the foam collapses, so it’s best eaten before 11 a.m.
Where to Find It
For authentic Malaiyo availability in Varanasi, head to:
- Thatheri Bazar and Chaukhamba Lane (old city)
- Shreeji Sweets or local vendors near Vishwanath Gali
These lanes come alive every winter morning with vendors carrying frothy kulhads covered in silver foil.
Dev Deepawali and the Sweet Side of the Festival
Dev Deepawali (the “Diwali of the Gods”) falls on the full moon of Kartik, fifteen days after Diwali. It’s believed that the gods descend to bathe in the Ganga, and the Ghats of Varanasi – from Dashashwamedh Ghat to Assi Ghat – glow with countless lamps.
Alongside rituals, the Varanasi street food during Dev Deepawali becomes a sensory experience: steaming jalebis, thandai stalls, and trays of Malaiyo gleaming under the light of diyas.
Travel Tip
Plan your Varanasi trip itinerary around the festival:
- Morning: Kartik Snan at the ghats → enjoy fresh Malaiyo
- Evening: Witness the Ganga Aarti, then explore dessert lanes around Chowk and Godowlia for festive sweets
Five Must-Try Sweets in Varanasi’s Winter
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Malaiyo
The star of the season – light, fragrant, and fleeting. Perfect for a morning treat after visiting the ghats.
You can try the famous Varanasi Malaiyo at Shreeji Sweets in Chaukhamba Lane, one of the oldest and most trusted spots for this rare winter delicacy.
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Banarasi Launglata
A deep-fried pastry stuffed with mawa and nuts, sealed with a clove (laung), and dipped in sugar syrup. Crisp outside, syrupy inside – a winter staple in Banaras seasonal desserts.
For the crispiest Launglata, visit Madanpura Sweet Shop near Chowk, known for its authentic Banarasi-style fried pastries filled with mawa and nuts.
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Varanasi Rabri & Jalebi with Rabri
Thickened milk flavoured with saffron and cardamom, often paired with hot jalebis. The hot-cold contrast makes it one of the most indulgent Varanasi winter sweets.
Head to Kashi Vishwanath Gali’s Kachori Gali area, especially Rajbandhu Sweets, where thick Varanasi Rabri and hot Jalebi with Rabri are local favourites.
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Banarasi Thandai
The classic milk drink with almonds, fennel, and spices. In winter, it’s served slightly warm and sometimes topped with saffron or rose – a comforting break between heavy sweets.
Experience the classic Banarasi Thandai at Thandai Ghar (Godowlia) — a century-old establishment that serves creamy, spice-infused thandai year-round, richer in winter.
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Chena Dahi Vada Varanasi
Soft chhena fritters soaked in sweetened yogurt and garnished with dry fruits. A lighter, creamy counterpoint to the rich milk sweets.
Try Chena Dahi Vada at Baba Thandai and Sweets near Dashashwamedh Ghat, where fresh chhena, sweet curd, and dry fruits make this a refreshing winter indulgence.
Sweet Stops for Your Dev Deepawali Trip
Morning Walk: Start at Assi Ghat or Dashashwamedh Ghat, join pilgrims for the Kartik Snan, then wander to Thatheri Bazar for Malaiyo.
Evening Lights: After the Ganga Aarti, stroll through Vishwanath Gali and Chowk – try Launglata, Rabri, and Thandai as diyas glow on the ghats.
Carry-home Treats: For longer-lasting sweets, pick up Launglata, Lal Peda, or Pista Rolls from old-city shops like Rajshree Sweets or Raswanti Sweets.
Summing Up
During Dev Deepawali Varanasi, the city glows with diyas and divine flavours. Winter mornings bring the rare, cloud-like Malaiyo, while evenings offer Launglata, Rabri, Thandai, and Chena Dahi Vada along the vibrant ghats. These Varanasi winter sweets capture the season’s soul – fleeting yet unforgettable. From the first spoon of Malaiyo to the last flicker of the Ganga Aarti, Banaras in winter is a sacred blend of devotion, heritage, and irresistible sweetness that truly defines Dev Diwali.
